Can the ‘Doc’ save Harris Tweed?

Unlike Dr Who which continues to growth from strength to strength, the fate of Harris Tweed is still unclear. Harris Tweed, once a must for all men’s wardrobes has been declining in popularity over the last decade. Production of this captivating cloth peaked in 1970, when approximately 7million metres were produced; today this figure is probably closer to 500,000 metres of cloth.

Shortly after the Second World War, 8 out of 10 people in Harris wove tweed or were somehow involved in the industry. In the peak of its popularity in the 70’s there were some 2000 weavers, this number is now in the low hundreds.

Changing fashions and consumer trends in the 80’s, sadly contributed to the start of the downward spiral of what almost led to the extinction of the tweed industry in Harris. So unstable did the market become that production was ceased in March 2009.

Nevertheless, one year on and the revival of the once loved cloth seems to be upon us. Matt Smith the new DR Who actor, has been recently snapped wearing a 1960’s Mackenzie Harris Tweed jacket, and ever since the phones of the Harris Tweed Authorities office have  been ringing of the hooks.

The revival of this versatile, vibrant and vivacious material has been at the heart of the Aptus Suits country range since its development in 2008 (http://www.tailored-suits.co.uk/woodcock_country_range.html). Harris Tweed lasts for decades, and comes in many different weights and styles. It therefore, lends itself perfectly to everything from a tailored Harris Tweed shooting suit, to a bespoke tailored Harris Tweed overcoat, the options really are endless.

Aptus Suits is based in the heart of the Cotswolds near the village of Dean. It is a small tailoring company offering its clients a personal service usually associated with tailors charging 5 times as much. The company was set up and continues to be run by two friends and has a growing client list of men and women seeking high quality tailoring, made from world renowned cloths but at an affordable price both nationally and internationally.

A tailored Harris Tweed jacket by Aptus suits starts at £550, a full three piece tailored shooting suit is £850.00.

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Harris Tweed

One of the most desirable wool textiles in the world, Harris Tweed is produced in the Outer Hebrides, Scotland, mainly in the one island with two names – Lewis and Harris – Whose centre is the town of Stornoway. Aptus Suits utilises the hardwearing nature of Harris Tweed, along with the protection it offers its wearers from the elements, by incorporating the endless colour combinations available into unique tailored shooting suits and bespoke tweed suits.

Raw Material

Harris Tweed begins life with pure virgin wools which are blended together to gain the advantages of their unique qualities and characteristics. Although the wool is grown principally on the mainland of Scotland, in the early summer the island and communities join together to round up and shear the local sheep to add their wool to the Scottish mainland clip.

Processing and Warping

The wool is taken to the factories of the main tweed producers where it is then washed and dyed. The coloured and white wools are weighed in predetermined proportions and then thoroughly mixed or blended, then carded. The resultant yarn has a twist imparted to it as it is spun to give its strength.

The spun yarn is then warped. This is a vitally important process where the basic pattern of the colours is prepared by winding the threads on to a frame of wooden pegs ensuring an even tension throughout. The warp is then gathered together in long hanks.

Weaving

The warp is delivered, together with yarn for the weft, to the homes of the weavers. All Harris Tweed is hand woven on a treadle loom by the weaver at his own home. Each loom is the weaver’s own property.

The tweed which is now approximately 78 metres long is collected from outside the croft gate and is returned to the manufacturers.

The tweed is returned in the ‘greasy’ state to the manufacturers, and it is here that it is finished – that is dirt, oil and other impurities are removed by washing.

The tweed will also pass through the skilled hands of the mending department where any loose ends and broken threads are rectified.

Stamping

After finishing, the Harris Tweed is then presented to the Harris Tweed Authority’s inspectors, and if all the necessary regulations have been complied with, it is stamped with the Certification Mark – or ORB MARK – as it is known throughout the world.

‘Harris Tweed’, must be made from 100 per cent pure virgin wool, dyed, spun and finished in the Outer Hebrides and hand woven by the islanders at their own homes, “in the islands of Lewis, Harris, Uista, Barra and their several purtenances”. (Harris Tweed Authority”)

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